The additional resistance that builds up with the initial corrosition creates some heat that burns the debris in the metal path and makes it much more difficult to remove. There are some areas where the corrosion is more difficult to remove: the parts where the main current happens. You will be surprised because most of the crust will go and you will see the yellow colour of the copper below! Then you can remove the crust of corrosion with a flat small screwdriver. No matter how thick the corrosion layer is, our recommendation is to put some drops of Caig DeOxit 100% (although other formulations (5%) may work too) and let it act for a little while. Many of them have corrosion points in the circuits and -above all- in both sides of zebra connectors. All in all, a good week where we have managed to repair 13 of the units, there are still 3 to go and one completely unserviceable! Some have already been sent to their lucky owners. Some other repairs involved changing the zebra connector - but most of the units used the double-zebra original piece, which is much better than the other two original zebra types and can be reused unless corroded.This can be seen when the screen lits only when a key is pressed. Not all segments lit, or not well enough.a couple of units with a LCD with black areas.So far 5 out of 17 have this problem, in several flavours: I think it doesnt make sense to continue with the old part - but let's see the durability of this new one for a while before making the change and discontinuing the old part. The design so so that when the screw enters, it presses harder to the sides, the same way a wall expansion screw works (plastic+screw). I have used exclusively our new piece, which penetrates below the keyboard circuit surface and grips on the sides. The third most typical problem is broken lower screw posts.The corrosion also spread to the main board in several of the cases, but in all units I was able to remove it with our trusty Caig Deoxit. The second more frequent is corroded battery bay connectors.Most frequent damage is broken upper screw domes in the back of the calculator.
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(continuing with the story: after the Spice series, the lower range was inherited by the Voyager series - for many, the most perfect calculator design ever, with the HP12c and the HP15c as the main examples)ĭuring the last week I have tried to repair (or install CL circuits on calculators) many calculators: 17 of them, of all types and flavours!Īgain, repair statistics are quite stable, but there is a jump between 1st and 2nd: Ignacio Sánchez suggested to design an adaptor that used two AAA batteries - where the size challenge does not exist. The original rechargeable batteries wear down, but the problem for the replacement is that the normal AA size is 1-2 mm too long for the machine - and you break the machine in the medium term.
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One of the issues that plague the HP Spice is the battery bay. Therefore, these machines have higher fatality rate than other models. In opinion of many HP experts, too many corners were cut to manufature them - several internal connections rely on pressure exerted by the screws that close the box - while in previous units the box screws did not have circuit integrity functions.
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The Spice machines were designed as low cost compared with the HP65-HP67 series, and as replacement of the Woodstock series. The Spices were the HP32E, HP33E, HP33c, HP37E and the HP34C - the top of the series. We are now designing an adaptor to put two AAA batteries in a Spice machine.